My West African Travel Experience

Traveling through West Africa was an unforgettable experience filled with surprises, cultural richness, and some frustrating but amusing challenges. From missing hotel shuttles to struggling with French in Senegal, each country had its own charm, unique rhythm, and unexpected lessons. Here’s my honest and personal recount of my journey through Gambia, Senegal, Côte D'Ivoire, Ghana, and Nigeria.

Gambia: First Impressions & Unplanned Adventures

I arrived in Gambia at midnight, exhausted but excited. My first shock? The resort I had booked had no shuttle waiting for me, even though I assumed they would. To make matters worse, their phone lines weren’t working, and the airport shops were closed, so getting a SIM card on arrival was impossible. The airport WiFi was unreliable, and I was left stranded for a moment. Eventually, the front desk staff advised me to take a green taxi, which turned out to be the oldest vehicle I had been in for years. But, thankfully, it got me to my hotel in one piece.

I had a friend in Gambia who got me a SIM card and graciously showed me around. Although local taxis were available, I never used one during my four-day stay. There’s no Uber in Gambia, which made movement slightly tricky, but having a local guide was a blessing.

My hotel cost £50 per night, including breakfast, and it was situated by a beautiful beach filled with tourists. The only unexpected expense came from buying clothes since my luggage arrived two days late. A local store had imported items directly from Zara, meaning the prices were similar to what I’d pay in London.

I made sure to try Benachin, the Gambian version of jollof rice, which I learned originated from the Jolof Kingdom (Wolof). I also tried Chicken Afra, a Gambian equivalent of Nigerian suya, which became my go-to meal.

For activities, I visited the Senegambia Strip, a lively tourist zone with bars and clubs, and enjoyed the local beach events at my resort, where performers entertained us with traditional music. My interactions with locals were mostly limited to hotel staff, but they were all hospitable and kind.

The country is 95% Muslim, but I found the atmosphere to be relaxed and liberal. The most surprising thing about Gambia was how safe and peaceful it felt, even at night. Seeing women out late at the Senegambia Strip, walking freely, was refreshing.

Next time, I’d prepare better for the unreliable WiFi—it was a struggle.

Senegal: A Journey Through Pan-African History

Getting to Senegal meant a six-hour road trip from Gambia, which included an early 5:30 AM ferry ride. Upon arrival, I got a SIM card at the border, which was easy and straightforward.

Unlike Gambia, Senegal has Uber and Yango (a local ride-hailing service), making it convenient to move around. However, communication was a challenge since French is the dominant language, and my French was rusty at best.

I spent just one night in Dakar, sticking to my £50 per night budget. The main highlight was visiting the African Renaissance Monument, a colossal statue that celebrates African identity and history. Walking there from my hotel took about 30 minutes, and I also toured the museum inside.

For food, I tried Thieboudienne (Tiep), the Senegalese version of jollof rice, which was absolutely delicious. Surprisingly, one of the best airport meals I’ve ever had was at the Dakar airport lounge.

Senegal, like Gambia, is 95% Muslim, but I found the blend of French and Islamic culture fascinating. Hearing people switch between “Salam Alaikum” and “Bonjour” in the same sentence was an interesting mix. The dusty streets and vibrant graffiti gave Dakar a raw, artistic energy that reminded me of video games like Zelda.

I was surprised at how large and influential Senegal is. Its strong Pan-Africanist vibe and museums make it a must-visit. Next time, I’d improve my French to better connect with locals.

Côte D'Ivoire: The Stunning City of Abidjan

I flew from Dakar to Abidjan on Kenya Airways, but the flight was delayed by four hours, meaning I arrived around midnight. Unfortunately, this meant the airport stores were closed, so I couldn’t get a SIM card. The WiFi was bad, but thankfully, a kind airport staff member shared his hotspot, allowing me to get a taxi to my hotel.

Like Senegal, Côte d’Ivoire uses CFA francs and has Yango taxis, so transportation was smooth once I got settled. I maintained my £50 per night hotel budget.

Food-wise, I tried Attiéké (Acheke), a garri-like dish served with spicy sauce and chicken. I also had Shukuya, which is similar to Nigerian suya. Both were delicious and had familiar flavors.

Touring Abidjan, I visited St. Paul’s Cathedral, a stunning piece of architecture, and took a walk around the legislative house and Felix Houphouët-Boigny stadium. My favorite spot was Bushman Café, an artsy Pan-African hub filled with breathtaking artwork.

Ivorian people were very friendly, and by now, my French had improved, so interactions were smoother. Abidjan’s beauty was unexpected—it reminded me of Rio de Janeiro. Next time, I’d work more on my French.

Ghana: The Black Mecca

I flew into Accra, Ghana with Emirates and immediately felt at home. Getting a SIM card at the airport was quick and easy, and my friend picked me up, so I had no hotel expenses.

I tried Waakye, a dish that combines rice, beans, garri, and other elements that wouldn’t typically go together in Nigerian cuisine. It was surprisingly tasty, but my Nigerian instincts resisted the idea of garri on rice and stew.

Accra was all about parties. From Exhale Lounge to Enigma Sky Lounge, Garage, Mood, Twisty’s, and Ace, we partied until 6 AM. A dining highlight was Bella Afrik, a restaurant with stunning African-inspired décor.

Ghanaians were as pleasant and hospitable as ever, and Accra felt safe. The city is a melting pot of cultures, which made me refer to it as the Black Mecca. I think every Black person should visit Ghana at least once in their lifetime.

The only struggle? The internet was terrible, but that seems to be a running theme in West Africa.

Final Thoughts

Each country in West Africa had something unique to offer. Gambia was serene, Senegal was historically rich, Côte d’Ivoire was stunning, and Ghana was a vibrant, cultural melting pot. The language barriers, internet struggles, and unexpected challenges only added to the adventure. Would I do it again? Absolutely—but with better WiFi plans and improved French!